Last year, on my meandering trip up France, I picked up a couple of hitch-hikers at Ax Les Thermes. They were heading for Carcassone, I was going to Limoux, so it worked out OK. They had walked the path over the Pyrenees.
Limoux produces exceptionally good sparkling wine. I stayed at a family-run hotel. The daughter was a very good looking girl. I thought she was a university student (19 -21) but she was actually 14, so the conversation took a different turn.
Although France has changed a lot (and not for the better) I do enjoy wandering through small towns and stopping where the mood takes.